2007 Meursault Les Tillets

Vincent Boyer's 2008s were tricky to taste at the beginning of June, as a few cuvees still had unconverted malic acidity. Boyer told me he prefers those cuvees that finished their sugar fermentations later, as these wines are more opulent. He did his normal debourbage in 2008, then stirred the lees once a week until January. Boyer harvested on the late side in 2008, beginning on September 28. "On the 22nd the fruit wasn't yet ripe," he told me. "There was a bit of rain on the afternoon of the 26th but not enough to dilute the grapes. We began with about 12% potential alcohol, but by the end it was more like 12.5% to 13%, as we lost a lot of juice when the grapes concentrated." (A Peter Vezan selection; importers include North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH; Dionysos Imports, Lorton, VA)

In direct contrast to 2006, when he picked on the late side, Vincent Boyer harvested chardonnay mostly between September 5 and 8, bringing in his fruit with about 12.5% potential alcohol and chaptalizing most of his cuvees to 13%. He stirred the lees weekly until January, then stopped. (A Peter Vezan selection; importers include North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH; and Dionysos Imports, Lorton, VA) Also recommended: Meursault en L'Ormeau (86), Meursault Les Chaumes des Perrieres (86), Puligny-Montrachet Les Rucheaux (85).