2004 Meursault Les Clous
France
Meursault
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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The team here harvested late in 2004 as they were concerned about the acidity level of the grapes. They did a quicker debourbage than usual, then crushed the grapes because they wanted more contact between the skins and the grapes-or "just enough to open the berries," according to director Bernard Hervet. This was a rather radical step for Bouchard, but Hervet and winemaker Philippe Prost thought the grapes lacked perfume and wanted to extract more aromatic material. They then did more lees stirring than is normal practice here. Following the malos, noted Hervet, the acid levels are typically between 4.1 and 4.3 grams per liter, or a bit lower than those of 2002. According to winemaker Prost, "2004 could be a cousin of '99 in its balance of acidity, ripeness and vine yields." Bouchard has turned out some extraordinary 2003 whites. Last year Hervet expressed the opinion that the best wines from this freakish vintage-and especially the reds-might turn out to resemble the monumental '47s. This year he told me that if wines like the Corton-Charlemagne and Meursault Genevrieres "do not prove to be capable of aging a long time, I'll have to blow my brains out."