1996 Chassagne-Montrachet Baudines
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Morey fattened up his '96s by leaving them on their lees until the July after the harvest. But he had already racked his '97s in April (and did less batonnage as he began to notice a leesy taste in the wines. Morey did not acidify his '97s; prior to the malolactic fermentations, he thought the wines had enough acidity but at the time of my visit he found them a bit flabby "a little in the style of '94 but fresher and with no botrytis." I found them a bit short on personality. Morey 1996s are another matter entirely: these wines show excellent freshness and purity of aromas. The days leading up to the '96 harvest, Morey points out, brought an unusual concentration of sugars and acids.
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