1997 Côte-Rôtie
France
Côte Rôtie
Northern Rhône
Red
Syrah/Shiraz
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Although Bernard Burgaud feels that his '98 Cote-Rotie will be a vin de garde he does not believe it will support an extended elevage. "The fruit in my wines typically develops quickly after the next harvest [i.e., the following fall], especially in older barrels," notes Burgaud. "The wine goes beyond primary fruit relatively early. Thus there's more to lose than to gain by waiting to bottle." Indeed, even the '98 juice in new barrels was showing compelling, sappy fruit in November rather than just oak-putting the developing wine, according to Burgaud, a bit ahead of schedule. (Alain Junguenet/Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA; Europvin/Christopher Cannan Selections, Watertown, MA)
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After a number of cellar visits in Cote-Rotie, I asked one vigneron if he could name anyone in the appellation who made a better wine from the higher-acid vintage of '96 than from the generally richer, riper harvest of '97. He singled out Bernard Burgaud, and my tastings accord with this judgment. And yet Burgaud is the first to admit that he usually makes Cote-Rotie with higher acidity than the wines of his neighbors, a tendency one might easily think would give him a particularly severe wine in '96 and a relatively fresh one in '97. Go figure. Burgaud dropped crop repeatedly in '96 to keep his ultimate yield to 38 hectoliters per hectare; the yield in '97 was 39 h/h. (Alain Junguenet/Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; Martine Wines, San Rafael, CA; Europvin/Christopher Cannan Selections, Watertown, MA)