2006 Puligny-Montrachet Village
France
Puligny Montrachet
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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In time for the 2007 vinification and elevage, brothers Marc and Alexandre Bachelet installed a better air-conditioning system in their new cuverie, which enabled them to carry out a slower malolactic fermentation. The brothers picked late in 2007 ("we privileged grape maturity," said Marc), waiting until September 10 to attack the crus and benefiting from a concentration of sugars as a result of wind. Potential alcohol levels were close to 13% for the crus, and the Bachelets did a bit of acidification during the fermentation. Yields averaged between 40 and 45 hectoliters per hectare, similar to 2006. Alexandre, who at the time of my visit was a bit banged up following a motorcycle accident, noted that yields here are normally in a fairly narrow range owing to the high percentage of old vines. Incidentally, the Bachelet-Monnot '06s were bottled in March of 2008.
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Brothers Marc and Alexandre Bachelet, with a combined age of about 52 years, began this operation in 2005 by signing a long-term rental agreement for the entire ten-hectare Jean-Pierre Monnot domain, which includes important holdings in Puligny-Montrachet as well as a good bit of pinot noir, mostly in Maranges. They constructed a new and airy cuverie behind the family home, where they practice a long, reductive elevage, aging their wines in barrel for a year and then moving them to cuve, still on their lees, for another six months. They normally stir the lees until the malos finish, then less frequently for another following month or two. They use a good bit of new oak-about 50% for their premier crus and somewhat more for their Batard and Bienvenue-and prefer a long, soft toast to the barrels, which they believe allows the wines to avoid taking on a torrefaction character. The brothers attracted considerable attention in the French press for their glyceral-rich maiden vintage, 2005, but the '06s may well be finer, as the amount of lees stirring and the percentage of new oak have been slightly reduced. Alexandre told me that they did a bit of acidification in both vintages "when needed, and only during the fermentation." This is a new producer to follow.
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