2020 Bourgogne Rouge

Marc Bachelet greeted me at his winery in Dezizes-lès-Maranges on a crisp, sunny morning. He and his brother Alexandre have set the standard not just in Maranges, but perhaps in the Côte de Beaune, their wines triumphing in many a blind “Burgfest” tasting. Bachelet-Monnot is on fire at the moment. “There was no risk of frost in 2020,” Marc explained in their spartan tasting room. “Flowering went well. We picked from August 20, beginning with a couple of parcels in Puligny-Montrachet and Bourgogne Blanc, then on August 25 and 26 we attacked the Premier Crus. There were large differences in maturity between parcels because the ripening occurred in August rather than in September, when the sugar levels increase more rapidly. We picked the reds from August 27. The 2020s do not show the heat like in 2018, and the pH levels came in between 3.15 and 3.20. Everything will be bottled in spring according to the lunar calendar, using natural corks.” What can I say that I have not said before: This was a thrilling set of white and reds, the kind of wines where I want to order a couple of cases as soon as I have tasted it. I highly recommend the 2020 Maranges La Fussières 1er Cru Blanc. This fast-improving appellation can excel at whites even if it is better known for reds – talking of which, the 2020 Maranges Clos de la Boutière 1er Cru is an absolute killer. This year, I did not discern a huge gap in quality between the outstanding Puligny Premier Crus Les Referts and Folatières and the sought-after Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru. I’d love to have all three in my cellar.