1997 Meursault Poruzots 1er Cru

A number of Jobard '98s were still in the early stages of their malolactic fermentations and therefore will require revisiting next year. Jobard describes the '98s as solidly structured wines of good quality; he began harvesting on the late side, just a day before the substantial rain of September 26, maintaining that the grapes weren't really ripe until then. The crop level was barely half of normal. Even in '98, Jobard did not cold settle the juice, nor would he consider blocking a portion of the secondary fermentation. "That wouldn't allow the aromas to express themselves," notes Jobard, who describes acidity levels in both '98 and '97 as "between low and average." Jobard says he also picked later in '97, and was able to get better ripeness without any dangerous loss of acidity.

Jobard describes 1997 as a very ripe year, but one with "correct" acidity. He waited beyond the ban de vendange to harvest, and got fruit with potential alcohol around 13%. The heat concentrated the sugars without compromising the acids, Jobard notes. Jobard 1996s are a whole 'nother matter. He was worried about high acidity levels at the outset, but the wines have turned out to have the power and density to balance their acids. Jobard compares '96 to his '85s, another vintage that was difficult to drink in the early years. But 1996 is a truly complete vintage, he says, and it would be a shame to drink these wines too young.