2023 Pommard La Croix Blanche

Anne Parent was joined by her niece, Constance Fages-Parent, who will eventually take over the running of the estate. She previously worked for FICOFI in Asia, and the transition will be a step-by-step process.

“It was a chaotic season,” Anne told me. “Springtime was not bad, but July was rainy and cold. Thankfully in September it was warmer and those last two or three weeks made the vintage. We did a normal crop, though not huge yields, a maximum 48 hl/ha for the Pommard Village. Harvest began on September 9 for the cuvées from purchased fruit and two days later, on our own estate, picking early in the morning. Sometimes, we stored the fruit in the cooler air-conditioned part of the winery. We did not have to do a lot of sorting. We were happy with the fact that the quantity did not affect the quality. The 2023 doesn’t have the same consistency and volume as the 2022 but the wines are softer and will give pleasure. I use less new oak nowadays and I added a new, small cooperage, Millard.”

I really appreciated the 2023s from Parent. There is a little tweaking going on, the wines fashioned in a more classical style with greater transparency and less emphasis on the new oak that has been reined in over recent vintages. The Pommard Premier Crus at the heart of the range are well worth looking out for, especially since they are reasonably priced. If you can stretch the wallet just a little wider, do check out her sublime Corton Les Renardes.