2002 Corton Le Rognet Grand Cru
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Ambroise, a very early harvester in 2003 (he started on August 21), describes this extreme year as "a low-acid, high-VA vintage that succeeds on sheer density of material."Ambroise used dry ice to chill his musts and was able to carry out a four-day cold soak.He did his normal single pigeage per day during the fermentation, and the total cuvaison lasted just 12 days.I had not tasted here for a few years, and am happy to report that Ambroise continues to move in the direction of gentler extraction.Ambroise's 2003s are hugely ripe and rich yet somehow manage to avoid coming off as heavy.(Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)