2004 Beaune Marconnets 1er Cru

Following a strict selection in the vines, this estate produced just 28 hectoliters per hectare on average in 2004. Oidium was only a serious issue in Marconnets, according to winemaker Geoffrey Choppin de Janvry, and the estate treated these vines via helicopter. Ultimately about 30% of the fruit was eliminated in Marconnets vs. 5% to 15% in the estate's other parcels. Grape sugars were in the 12. 6% to 13% range in 2004, said Choppin de Janvry, adding that he chaptalized the wines about a half-degree "just to prolong the fermentations. "The malos mostly finished in June and July, and I tasted all but the last three '04s from cuve, where they had been sulfited a month prior to my visit. Morot's top 2003s, made from grapes rich in sugar and without added acidity, have turned out splendidly. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D. C. )