2021 Chardonnay

Dog Point makes pure, low-yielding Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from its organic vineyards in Marlborough. It also produces a funky, cloudy, barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc, Section 94, which treads a very fine line, verging on faulty. Interestingly, the estate has implemented a new policy on when to release this wine to give it time to integrate. The 2018 is different from previous vintages, with less reduction (perhaps all the rain of the vintage washed off the sulfur), but it also helped by the decision to hold back the wine for six to seven years, which is the goal for this cuvée going forward. It feels like Section 94's promise is finally materializing after years of wondering who on earth found pleasure in such funk. The latest Sauvignon Blanc, the 2023, shows that lower yields and hand-harvesting have a distinct effect on reducing thiols. After being initially reductive, it reveals pure fruit and fine texture. The 2021 Chardonnay remains a little sweet in its fruit profile, but it’s not short on power and will be one for the long haul. There’s much to like in this Chardonnay. There’s no doubt Dog Point is constantly refining their wines, and that’s really exciting to follow.