2002 Cornas Chante-Perdrix

Delas harvested on the early side in 2003, and, according to director/enologist Jacques Grange, did not acidify its domain wines. Like so many of his colleagues in the Northern Rhone Valley, Grange carried out shorter macerations in 2003, with less pigeage and at lower temperatures. For example, the total cuvaison was just 12 days for Hermitage, as Grange did not want to extract vegetal or dry components. "But the grapes were clean, and we did not have to use more sulfur than usual," he added. Grange was buoyed by the way the wines were showing in November, but at the same time he worried aloud that they were almost too good to believe. "They're all presenting themselves well now, but some of this may be illusory. Some of these 2003s will be great but others not. "He expected to bottle most of the big reds in the first three months of 2005. During the difficult 2002 harvest, Grange did what he described as a draconian selection, keeping only the clean grapes-about 50% of total production. He vinified with the objective of making fruity, supple wines, then declassified all of the cuvees parcellaires into a limited line-up of basic bottlings-a strategy that more of his colleagues should have adopted in this difficult vintage. (Maisons Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA) Also tasted: 2003 Saint-Joseph Saint-Epine Blanc*, 2002 Condrieu Galopine, 2003 Condrieu Galopine.