2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Russian River Valley)

Tom Dehlinger told me that he is "extremely happy with 2010" because there was " a convergence of power and elegance" in the wines that's rare and "a winemaker's dream." Now into its fourth decade of production, the vineyard, which started off at 14 acres and now encompasses 45, is being methodically being re-planted where necessary and in small parcels "based on what we've learned about what works where since 1975," Tom told me. While he will occasionally purchase fruit, "it has to be from somebody we see eye-to-eye with, especially when it comes to yields and picking for freshness; otherwise it can't happen, or continue." The Dehlinger wines age extremely well, a fact I was reminded of this year when Tom poured me a mini-vertical of his syrah. The 1992, the first bottling, is still hanging in there, with a mellow, smoky character, fading dark fruit and a smooth, velvety texture with some finishing dryness. Drink 'em if you've got 'em. The 1997, made from "very ripe fruit" according to Dehlinger, is drinking very well, with sweet dark berry flavors and energizing spiciness on the finish. Tom thinks that "it's in the sweet spot right now" and should be drunk over the next few years. I really liked the 2002, which is graceful, gently sweet and very precise, with a sexy floral touch and excellent persistence. The 2007 is still quite youthful, with a dark purple color and densely packed black and blue fruit flavors. The tannins are in retreat and there seems to be more than ample fruit to see it well into its teen years.