2021 Chenin Blanc Hoë-Steen

David & Nadia (previously just “David”) is one of Swartland’s most respected producers, known for their terroir-driven, low-intervention Chenins that often lean more towards texturally-satisfying wines rather than elevating obvious aromas and flavours. The watchword here is “subtlety”. This is a small operation, and David Sadie himself, no relation to Eben, had to contend with some health issues before the 2021 vintage. “There were cold evenings, so you had to be patient,” he tells me. “Normally harvests are condensed and finished by mid-February, but we finished 5 March, picking over five to six weeks. Because of my surgery, I could not pick up the crates, so I had to check them [and ask someone to move them around]. I feel that maybe before, we were doing the harvest too quickly, and so I stepped back and took my time. I am happy with the early picks and the low pH levels.” I understand that previously there has been cork issues here, and they currently use three suppliers, though David Sadie mentioned that he is considering Diam, which personally I think would be ideal. Otherwise, this is a strong set of wines that will appeal to those with a penchant for complex, understated, neutral wines that seem to unfurl with aeration.