2004 Amarone della Valpolicella

Dark, deep, dense, elegant, powerful, and yet somehow perfectly balanced and never tiring to the senses, it’s hard to understand just how Dal Forno Romano continues to consistently produce such a riveting lineup of Valpolicella wines, and at such a high level. The winery and vineyards are located in Val d’Illasi, the furthest valley east of Verona that is permitted to produce Valpolicella and Amarone. However, what Marco Dal Forno has certainly proven is that this terroir is just as important as the Classico region. Here we find alluvial soils with an increase in the amount of clay as you gently move upslope, versus the volcanic origins and steeper elevations to the west. While Marco Dal Forno and his father have been very accepting of technology, and earlier than most, today this winery looks no different than what you’d expect from a world-class cellar, along with being clean enough to eat off the floor. The wines continue to be refined in barrique, while larger-format barrels are the trend; yet the integration is perfect, whereas their Amarone and Valpolicella may take a little longer to blossom than most, but when they do, it’s magical. It also helps that Marco Dal Forno releases later than most, with 2015 as the current vintage. In the end, what defines the style here is really about the terroir, the family and their exceptionally high expectations. The only sad news for lovers of the wines is the continued reduction in quantity from vintage to vintage, as hail has become a repeating problem year after year.