2010 Dolcetto d'Alba

Although the Piedmont region has enjoyed a succession of good to outstanding vintages since 2004, enologist Alberto Cordero cautions that the last two harvests have been complicated. "In 2010 we couldn't sleep," he told me in mid-September, "and 2011 will be tricky too, since we're still waiting for phenolic ripeness and color." Cordero told me that changes in the vineyards here in recent years have been made with the objective of getting better-balanced fruit. Most important has been the use of an external co-op of workers who have the flexibility to do critical work on short notice, especially crop-thinning. "As a result, we're now getting a better balance of ripeness in our various vineyards. And we're not big fans of super-low yields, as we don't think this is the best way to get balance in our wines." The estate bottled its 2007 Barolo crus earlier than previously owing to the style of the vintage. "I'm a fan of classic vintages that begin with less flesh and need time in bottle, like 2008, but I also like years when everything is perfect and the wines are ready early," explained Cordero. "Two thousand seven reminds me of 2004 in terms of color, ripeness, smooth tannins and early drinkability. In fact, 2004 was even rounder and more international in style, good for everyone but a bit standardized. In 2007 we had similar ripeness and concentration, but you feel the differences between the crus." (numerous importers, including Omni Wines, Flushing New York; Haw River Wine Man, Burlington, NC; and Wine Warehouse, Richmond, CA)