2017 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Labieno

The portfolio of Colognola - Tenuta Musone is a bit of a mixed bag, with some gems that firmly keep them on my radar. Tenuta Musone is a large operation with 500 hectares, 265 of which are under vine, yet farmed organically since 2017. The vineyards are planted at an average of 360 meters above sea level in well-drained calcareous soils. Thirty-three hectares of Colognola vines are situated at around 400 meters nearing Monte Conero, an ideal location for the variety. All of the whites are refined in stainless steel over varying amount of time with aging on the lees. This is where some of the variability comes into play. The wickedly fresh Via Condotto (4 to 6 months in stainless steel) shows wonderful purity and vintage transparency, while the richer and more characterful Ghiffa (one year in stainless steel on the lees) shows the prestige of the vineyards and remarkable balance. The bigger, richer and slightly clumsy Labieno (two years in stainless steel on the lees) takes things a bit too far. All of that said, the potential is there for even greater things to come.