2022 Chardonnay

Cloudy Bay is a Marlborough icon now owned by luxury goods firm LVMH. Almost three-quarters of Cloudy Bay’s 460-hectare production is dedicated to Sauvignon Blanc. It has grown exponentially but is still perceived to be a luxury, go-to wine, and people pay over the odds for it. That said, the 2023 silences its critics, delivering an elegant, fragrant style – exactly what you want from Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc but with class. Interestingly, its maker notes that since 2020, thiols have dramatically increased, which has doubled in quantity, leading to greater aromatics. That said, the 2023 has an herbal lift that is a vintage characteristic. The barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc Te Koko has become more subtle in recent years, although keeping Marlborough's flamboyance in check will always be a challenge. In 2021, the Te Koko has huge intensity due to low yields, and its component parts will take some time to marry. While owned by a sparkling wine specialist, the non-vintage fizz is a good example, but it should be great. When it comes to Pinot Noir, red-lovers should seek out greater complexity elsewhere.