2012 Chinon Eminence Grise

As I had never even heard of this estate before, it was one of the most pleasant surprises on my most recent trip along the Loire during harvest. While having dinner in the Café des Arts upon my arrival in Chinon, I asked owner Frédéric Giessinger if there were any new talents that I should see. He is a great wine buff, knows everyone, and went on to tell me about a certain Fiona Beeston, who had only recently acquired a little property just above the city. When I asked if that was the same Englishwoman who had once written for La Revue du Vin de France, he replied yes and gave me her portable telephone number.

I had known her quite well when I lived in Paris years ago and was intrigued. When I paid her a visit the next afternoon, I saw that she had also purchased a beautiful manor home above the Vienne with a stunning view of Chinon and its surroundings. “When the kids left home,” she told me, “I wanted to try something new.” She searched for three years before finding the Clos des Capucins, with its 1.4 hectares of vineyard just below the more famous Clos de l’Echo.

Her friends were surprised to see her take to farming, even more so when she went biodynamic, but she enjoyed the manual labor. Her first vintage, 2011, was well received. Beginner’s luck? I don’t think so. The vinification facilities are still a bit makeshift, but Charles Joguet has given a helping hand and, more importantly, Beeston knows what she wants. Some winemakers toil their lives away and never make a cabernet franc as subtle and well balanced as her 2012 Eminence Grise. Hats off!