2012 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
France
Charmes Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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Christophe Roumier rarely allows himself too much excitement over a vintage before it's safely in bottle, but it was clear in November that he's high on the 2012s.He describes these wines as "richer than the 2010s but also precise; they have spine."He noted that pHs were lower than average and roughly equivalent to those in 2010.Crop levels were low (roughly the same in 2012 and 2013 here), and potential alcohol levels were in the 12.2% to 13% range, with only certain wines requiring chaptalization.He vinified across the board with 25% to 30% whole clusters.Interestingly, Roumier described his 2011s as compact, even austere, with a black fruit character.Most of his colleagues consider their 2011s to be redder and friendlier.
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Christophe Roumier's 2012 are among the highlights of the vintage. As is the case in pretty much every cellar, yields are down sharply, mostly because of poor weather during flowering, which will make these wines even harder to find than normal. Overall, there are some parallels with 2010, although the 2012s have lower acidities and strike me as having a little more overt depth as well.
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