2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

It's easy to forget that you're in Chateauneuf-du-Pape when visiting La Nerthe, whose chateau isn't visible from the main road, especially when you have a chance to tour the 90 contiguous hectares surrounding the main buildings.Much of the land is unplanted, with intent to focus "only on the creme de la creme" of their land, most of which is part of La Crau and hard by Vieux Telegraphe's vineyards.The 2011 here (only one wine will be released) shows very good depth and power for the year but winemaker Christian Voeux believes that despite good aging potential it will be best in its youth.The '10s here are still extremely youthful and in need of further bottle age to move past their current primary stage.I also had the chance to re-taste some older wines here; the 2009 Chateauneuf is showing energetic red fruit and floral character right now, with deeper bitter chocolate and anise qualities coming up with air.The 2008 is bright and tangy, with lively red berry and mineral character and a slightly pinched finish.I was quite impressed, even surprised by the vivacity of the 2007, which offers sweet raspberry and cherry flavors and strong spicy lift.Voeux also showed me a mini-vertical of the Cuvee des Cadettes, starting with the 2009, which is still a primary, large-scaled wine, with deep dark fruit and vanilla flavors and round, velvety tannins.The 2008, which was made from what Voeux described as a tiny yield, is wonderfully deep for the vintage but still shows that year's energy and tanginess.I'd be looking to drink it on the young side, for its immediate fruit appeal.The 2005, on the other hand, is built for long-term cellaring, with intense, spice-accented cherry and cassis character and velvety tannins.No way I'd broach a bottle of this wine until at least its tenth birthday, and even then it should be decanted.