2012 Gigondas Le Claux
France
Gigondas
Northern Rhône
Red
Grenache
00
2018 - 2023
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The ever-loquacious, opinionated and reliably frank Louis Barruol told me that 2010 has only one weakness as a vintage, and that's the fact that "the wines are too structured for a market that more and more wants immediate gratification." He went on: "Too many people won't understand just how great the wines are because they've started opening them and they're not finding upfront pleasure, so they think the wines are overrated." In Barruol's view, 2011 is bound to become "a classic example of a vintage that's overlooked because of what's around it, which means 2009, 2010 and 2012, so it's not going to be easy for people to accept that these wines can be excellent, and powerful as well." It's worth noting that Barruol's "basic" Gigondas checks in at 14.5% alcohol in 2011, which doesn't fit in with many folks' stereotype of the vintage as being weak-kneed. The natural concentration that was brought on by the low yields of the vintage "has made wines that will fool people down the road. They'll never guess that they're from a vintage that people wrote off," Barruol concludes. (Craft+Estate/The Vintner Group, www.craftandestate.com; Cavatappi Distribuzione, www.cavatappi.com; Epic Wines, www.epic-wines.com)