2021 Pinot Noir Costalina

Winemaking often comes down to making decisions in critical moments, usually in the heat of battle. John Raytek did exactly that in 2020. With fires threatening, Raytek harvested what he could and dropped as much as half the crop in other sites to push ripening ahead as much as possible. In the cellar, Raytek reduced stems in the Pinots to about 40% from the more typical 60-80%, used only 10% new oak instead of 35% or so and used press fractions only minimally. In 2020, Raytek did not bottle any appellation-level wines, preferring to use the best lots for his vineyard designates. Any barrels that did not meet his quality standard were quickly sold off. The result is a truly impressive set of 2020s. The wines are a bit lighter than most years but still full of flavor and character. I expected the Chardonnays to be stronger than the Pinots, as navigating the challenges of the fires was generally easier in Chardonnay vineyards. Still, I have a slight preference for the Pinots. I can't recommend these wines highly enough.

John Raytek presented a stunning set of 2021s. The Pinots are brilliant across the board. Whole cluster inclusion is quite high, 60-80% on average, but the stem influence is so subtle and is mostly felt in the wine's salinity and energy rather than flavor profile, a tell-tale sign of a superior year. The 2021s spent 12 months in barrel and then a few months in tank. Chardonnay also stars in 2021. Like so many wines in this vintage, the Chardonnays need a ton of air to show at their best. Élevage for the Chardonnays is about 10-11 months in barrel and then 5-6 months in tank, depending on the year, prior to bottling. One of the recent changes here has been a move towards thicker-staved 300-liter barrels for the Chardonnays, which help preserve heat in fermentation and then reduce contact with oxygen during aging. As a complement to the more neutral wood imprint in general, new oak usage is up a touch. Raytek has made his name with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but Cabernet Sauvignon will soon play a bigger role in this expanding range. Readers will want to take a close look at the 2020 Colima Cabernet Sauvignon for a hint of what is coming down the road. This is an exciting set of wines from top to bottom.