2010 Blanc de Blancs La Haute Lemblé

Cédric Bouchard remains one of Champagne's most mysterious and reclusive figures, even in Champagne, where he keeps a low profile. In the end, though, the wines speak for themselves, and do so with great eloquence. Readers will note that all of the wines are now labeled under one name, Roses de Jeanne, which makes things a lot easier. Bouchard fans will also note the addition of a new Pinot Noir, Presle, which emerges from a steep hillside parcel planted with 15 different clones. As always, farming rules the day. The wines are done quite simply, all in steel, bottled with less sugar and lower pressure than is the norm and finished with no dosage. Cédric Bouchard is a dreamer, and the world needs dreamers. Readers who can find these Champagnes should not hesitate, as they are magnificent.