2009 Chablis Saint Pierre

It's as if Sebastien Dauvissat exists in his own microclimate, as his wines rarely seem to track their vintages. Dauvissat describes his 2009s as very minerally vins de garde that will require patience; he likened them to his 1999. In comparison, he went on, the 2008s are fruity and agreeable, "a bit like the 1998s." Dauvissat is never in a rush to commercialize, or to drink, his wines. At any given time, he's offering magnums of eight- or nine-year-old wines to his private clients, and he told me he won't start opening his 2002s for a few years. When I mentioned to him the issue of premature oxidation of some 2002 white Burgundies he assured me that his wines were still fresh. By the way, Dauvissat has stopped doing a first, earlier bottling for his premier crus.