2004 Chianti Classico

By all accounts, this estate in Barberino Val d'Elsa has one of the greatest terroirs in all of Chianti, with compact sandy soils (and a little clay) located at high altitude (450 metres), and old vines whose roots dig down seven or eight meters. The latter fact helps explain the stellar quality of their '03s, from a drought year. That they're doing plenty right here is also exemplified by the superb quality of their canaiolo nero, a difficult Italian native that almost everyone else has given up on, and that had traditionally been the softer blending partner of sangiovese in Chianti. I should also add that the results obtained by Paneretta with canaiolo nero give the exact measure of just how misguided and short-sighted efforts were to turn Chianti into merlot- and cabernet-dominated wines, a view rampant even in the Italian press only a few years ago. Also recommended: Vin Santo del Chianti Classico (86).