2007 Zinfandel Papera Ranch

The good news Mike Officer gave me this year is that the Montafi Ranch vineyard, which was slated to be pulled up (and most likely replanted to pinot noir), has been given a stay of execution. "No doubt a result of the lousy economy, so it's nice to find a silver lining," he said. Officer is thrilled that he was able to lock in an agreement to farm this 13-acre vineyard through 2017 and maintain access to these old zinfandel vines, which were planted in 1926. He told me he likes to "emphasize photosynthesis with the objective of slowing down sugar buildup and preserving freshness" in the vines. "Canopies aren't just about shade," he said, adding that he is very happy with his move away from making wines that are "big for the sake of being big." Carlisle describes 2007 as a dream vintage. "The fruit was perfectly ripe but the sugars weren't too high and acidity levels were just right."