2002 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Auslese

Karl-Josef Loewen continues his experimental ways in the vineyard and cellar in order to showcase diverse and long-neglected Middle Mosel terroirs. The great Laurentiuslay (also nobly championed by Nik Weis at St. Urbanshof) is only the most prominent of these. Loewen is highly skeptical of green harvesting, particularly in light of a year like 2002, believing that it greatly accentuates the danger that the remaining grapes will be pumped up to the bursting point. "There is no quick remedy for potentially deficient concentration," says Loewen. Rather, one must work the soils for low vigor, he insists, and attend to the severe pruning of the vines in the first place. Berry size is also critical:Loewen has been at the forefront of propagating heirloom riesling varieties with tiny berries. (Terry Theise) Also recommended: 2002 Riesling Classic, 2002 Riesling Variador, 2002 Detzemer Maximiner Klosterlay "Christopher's Wine," 2002 Leiwener Klostergarten Riesling Kabinett Feinherb.