2002 Sauvignon Quarz

This first-rate cooperative in the hills west of Bolzano has been in existence for over a century. Its one hundred or so member growers specialize in white wines whose varietal character is uniquely expressed by the distinctive terroir of this region. Here the soil is loose and gravelly, with an underlay of quartz-like stones of volcanic origin, including the reddish porphyry, a signature mineral found in these vineyards. The wines exhibit a strong sense of minerality and an austere elegance that distinguish them from those of other areas in the Sudtirol. They are also very long-lived. A 1992 sauvignon that I tasted quite recently was remarkable for its vibrancy, showing few signs of aging while maintaining the varietal character of the grape. Until a decade ago the winemaker at Terlan, Sebastian Stocker, was perhaps the best-known figure in the region for his ability to maintain the unique character of this cooperative. Even the legendary and idiosyncratic Giorgio Grai (whose wines once represented the epitome of what this region had to offer) used to purchase fermented grapes from Terlan. The new winemaker, Rudi Kofler, explained to me that since the vineyards are planted at anywhere from 250 to 900 meters, different vats of the same variety can be blended from different altitudes, allowing him to compensate for year-to-year climatic variability. Some wines are aged in large oak casks, a portion of them on their lees for an extended period, resulting in the reductive aromas for which these wines are noted.