2001 Brunello di Montalcino

This was another great opportunity to compare an estate’s Brunello to their Riserva, as well as another example of how the Riserva category excelled in the 2001 vintage at Canalicchio di Sopra. Many things have changed at Canalicchio di Sopra over the last twenty years, yet it’s the respect for what was accomplished in past generations that continues to inspire them. In fact, it was in 2001 that Francesco Ripaccioli, along with his brother and sister, began their journey to slowly taking full control of the vineyards and winery. The focus since then has been on bringing forward a purity of fruit and to fully understand their vineyards: Canalicchio and Montosoli. Within these two vineyards exist unique terroirs (further being defined as Crus) that were studied to develop individual practices in both farming and vinification techniques. This was a long process, which we are only today beginning to see through their cru bottles, La Casaccia and the upcoming Montosoli. In 2001, things were quite different. The 2001 Brunello was a blend of fruit from Canalicchio (around 70%) and Montosoli (around 30%), a total of four separate parcels, matured for three years in large barrels. As for the Riserva, the family used their oldest vines and a selection in the vineyards and then matured it for four years in barrel. This is where we see the biggest difference today. The modern-day Canalicchio di Sopra to create their Riserva sources fruit from the vineyard that benefits most from the conditions of each individual vintage. Without any set parameters for barrel maturation, the wine is ready to be bottled when it’s ready to be bottled. This approach has brought a level of balance and freshness that many of the past vintages of Riserva didn’t achieve.

When asked about how Montalcino has changed since 2001, Francesco Ripaccioli offered: “The evolution of Montalcino was not a break with the past, because even the past was full of great teachings; it was an evolution of knowledge that today translates into bottles that tell the different facets of our territory. And above all, I see a united territory, made up of friendly producers who want to grow together.”

This family-run estate makes an excellent Brunello from its 15 hectares of vineyards in the Canalicchio zone of Montalcino. I recently had the opportunity to taste several vintages of the Brunello, which was a great opportunity to assess recent vintages as well as glean some insights into how the wine ages. From vintage to vintage the wine showed its characteristic notes of scorched earth and ripe dark fruit. With a few years of bottle age the wines often begin to display attractive, heady white truffle overtones. The house favors cask-aging for its Brunello and the wines are made in a fairly traditional style.