2021 Chambertin Grand Cru

Head winemaker Carel Voorhuis is unfortunately ill on the day of my visit, so commercial director Aurélien Bigot takes me through their wines. “We started the picking on 21 September until 8 October, during which we sorted out around 15-20% of diseased/mildew affected bunches,” Bigot tells me. “There is less crop, around half for the Premier and Grand Crus. Also, the duration of cuvaison was shorter with a slightly lighter maceration in order to not extract unwanted flavours. For the élevage, we used fewer new barrels, around 20-30% in general, with a little more for the whites. For example, on the Chassagne Tonton Marcel, we just have a feuillette. At the moment, we don’t know the time of bottling; the whites will probably be at the beginning of next year.”

Camille Giroud’s 2021s reflect the inconsistencies of the vintage. Relying on contracted fruit leaves, even for a skilled winemaker like Voorhuis at the mercy of vineyard managers, is risky in such a difficult growing season as 2021. For example, I feel that the Charmes-Chambertin and Chambertin leave much to be desired; it’s skinny and a bit mean, whereas their Clos Vougeot is wonderful. Essentially, it’s a mixed bag through no fault of the team under Voorhuis, and they’ll be back much stronger next year.