2019 Bel Canto Cara Mia Vineyard

A bottle of 2005 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard turned my head years ago and got me to start paying attention to Washington State wine. That one bottle inspired me to buy a case of 2005 Cadence to watch mature over the years and look deeper into the region and its producers. Ben Smith of Cadence remains at the top of his game. This recent trip allowed me to explore several back vintages going back to 1999, showing just how beautifully these wines can age. The only 2020 we tasted was the CODA, a blend of 55% Cabernet Franc and 45% Merlot, to which Smith commented, “No issues, we got lucky with no smoke issues.”

In 2018 Smith stopped purchasing fruit from Ciel Du Cheval and in 2019 did the same at Tapteil, preferring to use all estate fruit going forward. The winery has always been focused on 100% Red Mountain fruit, and now it will all come from their Cara Mia vineyard. Smith commented, “I need more shade” to deal with the warm temperatures, but he’s also aiming to produce another 2.5 tons per acre. The way he’s trying to accomplish both is by planting rows between the rows, now spaced just four feet apart. This is no easy task, as the young vines between the older rows require careful watering, especially to survive among the older vines' root systems. However, once they come to maturity, there will be more competition among the vines, along with natural shading. While I’ll miss Tapteil Vineyard and Ciel Du Cheval going forward, I can fully understand Smith’s desire to be able to focus and improve within his estate vineyards independently.