2005 Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba

Bruno Giacosa stirred up a shitstorm in the Langhe when he was quoted by a wine journalist saying that he didn't much like the 2006 vintage and did not plan to release any Barbarescos or Barolos under his own label. Giacosa, after all, is an icon and an opinion leader in the region, and many of his colleagues in Barbaresco were immediately concerned that they'd have trouble selling their 2006s-wines that many of them consider to be outstanding. What Giacosa actually said may never be known, but what's clear is that the year has bad associations for him. He suffered a stroke early in 2006 and was hardly in shape to worry about vineyards and harvesting in the subsequent months. Happily, he was in much better form by the time I tasted with him in September 2007 and on my most recent visit he was quite excited about his young 2007s. The best proof of this enthusiasm was his feeling that this vintage will yield two riserva bottlings. He compared 2007 to 2000, which fans of Giacosa's wines know was a great vintage for him. In 2005, all of his Barbarescos and Barolos were bottled with white labels (i.e., not riserva) but I had the impression that he now views these wonderfully perfumed wines in a better light. "At the beginning," said Giacosa, "we didn't think the 2005s could be long agers. Now they still don't have hugely concentrated color, but it's clear that they can certainly age." Giacosa admitted a preference for Barolo over Barbaresco in this vintage, despite that fact that a higher percentage of fruit was harvested in Barbaresco before the damaging early October rains. Incidentally, long-time winemaker Dante Scaglione left in March of 2008 and was replaced by Giorgio Lavagna, who was previously head winemaker at Batasiolo in La Morra.

Bruno Giacosa seems to be in better shape each time I see him, but on my latest visit, in November 2008, he seemed particularly energized. We spent several hours tasting through the 2006s and 2007s from barrel, along with all of the 2005s and 2004s from bottle. As my readers know, I have been following Giacosa's 2005 Barolos for several years and I have been fond of these wines for some time, as they have always demonstrated exceptional balance. Now that the wines are in bottle they are every bit as delicious as they were from barrel. Giacosa fans will want to give these 2005 Barolos (and the Barbarescos, too) careful consideration as 2006 is shaping up to be a weaker vintage here. On the subject of the 2005 Barbarescos, they are every bit as successful as my scores suggest, if anything I may have misjudged just how great the wines will ultimately be. As for the 2005 Barolos, the wines seem to have been helped quite a bit by the southern exposure of the Falletto vineyard.