2018 Bourgogne Chardonnay Réserve

“For the reds in 2018, the winter was very wet and not so cold, twice the rainfall of a normal year," head winemaker Frédéric Weber told me as we tasted in their grotto-like cellar in Beaune. "That was very important as it meant there was moisture in the soil. Spring was a little later than usual and the weather became hot, sunny and dry. The growing season was impressive, the vines very vigorous so that was difficult for the vineyard team. Disease pressure was low as the weather was dry, and a strong northerly wind dried the grapes. August saw high temperatures, 300 more hours of sun than a normal year and 2°C higher in average temperature, so the maturity arrived sooner. Consequently I started picking 30 August with the Pinot Noir. It was a normal crop for Pinot Noir, 35-42hl/ha, Chardonnay more generous, up to 52hl/ha, so we green harvested to eliminate excess bunches - the first time since 2009. We also did not deleaf to protect from the sun. We adapted the vinification: reducing the time in the press and a maximum of 17°C during alcoholic fermentation in the tank and at the end, racking with a lot of lees into barrel. There was a lot of seeds in the berries, which is why I did a soft maceration without punching down the cap, preferring a 10-day infusion. There were low malic levels and malo was a little longer than usual, finishing in June for the whites, but it was quicker for the reds. The reds will be bottled in March to May, later than 2017s. "