2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape A la Gloire de Mon Grand-Père

Nicolas Boiron is making some of the most finely etched yet well-concentrated wines in the appellation, Boiron took charge of his family’s 32-hectare domaine in 2004. The jump in quality was apparent from the get-go. Prior to Boiron’s arrival the wines usually leaned heavily to the rustic side (as a recent bottle of 1998 proved again), although they have aged well. The 2019s and 2017s here are immensely charming but concentrated, with well-integrated tannins and great aromatic complexity. In the context of the top examples in the appellation Boiron’s wines are quite well-priced and continue to fly beneath the radar.

In a relatively short time, Nicolas Boiron has pushed this domaine’s wines into the upper echelon of the appellation. His 2016s, along with the 2015s serve as his finest work yet. Boiron represents the sixth generation of his family to oversee the 28.5-hectare estate, which was established in 1860. Prior to Nicolas’ arrival the wines could be very good, but there was a lack of consistency and often, a rustic and firm character defined them. These characteristics are no more. The wines post Nicolas’ arrival are almost shockingly elegant renditions of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, made with a light touch, even in hot vintages like 2016 and 2017. Pricing has not yet caught up to quality, so these wines should be high up on any savvy Rhône-lover’s shopping list.