2006 Unico

For decades the fame of this bodega, established in 1864, has extended far outside the region and Spain. It produces some of the most coveted and age-worthy wine in the world. While wines from decades past (I’ve had the good luck to taste and drink wines going back to 1921) were almost always excellent to otherworldly, things really kicked up when the Alvarez family purchased the estate in 1982. Under the watch of Pablo Alvarez and with massive investment in the vineyards and winery, the quality of the wines being made here now is both consistent and astoundingly high. In the context of First Growth Bordeaux, Grand Cru Burgundy and even some Napa Valley wines, the legendary Unico, which ages in barrels for ten years before bottling, is actually a great value. It has always garnered the attention of well-heeled collectors, and rightfully so. But it’s the increasing quality of the Valbuena that has intrigued me over the years. It’s quite a different wine from Unico, with more power and, relatively speaking, forward fruit. On its own it’s one of the great wines of Spain, but it seems to still, undeservedly, be standing in the daunting shadow of Unico, at least in the label-buyers’ eyes. These current vintages are the best young wines that I have ever had here, and for those with the means, I cannot recommend them highly enough. The multi-vintage Unico Reserva Especial, which is always composed of wines from three different, complementary years, is another beast entirely. Released when they’re believed to be approachable, these complex wines age effortlessly and are quite intriguing, even if they aren’t easy to find.