2014 Verdicchio di Matelica

Standing in the Bisci vineyards puts Matelica into perspective, as vines run along gently sloping hillsides flanked by mountains on three sides. In 1972 the Bisci family began production of Verdicchio and a mix of reds, including Merlot and Sangiovese. Today, the property totals 20 hectares, 99% contiguous, surrounding the winery between 320 to 370 meters in elevation. The soils are a mix of clay and limestone, versus more sand and stones in Jesi, but the major difference is the climate. The vines enjoy a continental climate with significant diurnal shifts, which extend harvest from seven to ten days in any given vintage. The long season and cooler climate allow the grapes of Matelica to create Verdicchio packed full of character, and with a stern core of minerality, without over-ripeness. Long-time enologist Aroldo Bellelli, who also consults as an agronomist and winemaker throughout the region, follows strict organic practices, with limited working of the soils and a well “managed” use of sulfur to create this portfolio that is full of tension and verve. While the wines encapsulate all of the leaner, greener, mineral-intense qualities of Matelica, they do so while remaining focused on fruit and purity. What’s more, the wines age beautifully from top to bottom, as a recent tasting of older vintages at the estate proved this summer.

With 20 hectares of vineyards located between 1,000 and 1,800 feet above sea level, Bisci is a heavyweight in the small Verdicchio di Matelica denominazione. Size and quality go hand in hand here, and Bisci's Verdicchio wines are among the best of the Marche. I especially like the fact that they are very faithful to the Matelica terroir: steely and refined, with a dry Riesling-like quality to them. Bisci’s Fogliano vineyard is a true grand cru for the Verdicchio grape.