2012 Brut Blancs de Blancs Louis Salmon
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2026 - 2042
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The significant increase in quality at Billecart-Salmon is no longer news, but it’s still worth mentioning. Quite simply, the Champagnes here have never been better. Of course, the flagship wines are terrific, but the biggest changes are at the other end of the spectrum, among the entry-level offerings. Only a few years ago, I felt these wines were so ordinary that I rarely included them in this report. To say that is no longer the case is an understatement.
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2025 - 2037
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Mathieu Roland-Billecart continues to forge his own path at the family’s estate. Under his thoughtful leadership, today Billecart-Salmon offers a decidedly contemporary view of what Champagne is and what it can be. There is a great focus on quality, that is evident. Separately, dosage has come down significantly, as much as 50% for some wines, including the Brut Rosé, the Champagne that, for me, most identifies the house in broad terms. The production cycle in Champagne from concept to finished wine takes years, far longer than almost any other wine region in the world. For that reason, there is every reason the best is yet to come.
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