2012 Bourgogne Rouge

Benjamin Leroux continues to expand his range with a handful of new selections. It is both interesting and instructive to taste Leroux's range right after the wines he makes at Comte Armand because the wines highlight some of the differences between the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits. At Comte Armand, the wines are deeply marked by the freakishness of the vintage, while here the wines (especially those from the Côte de Nuits) play much more within the classic parameters of their respective appellations. As always, production is tiny. Readers who can find these wines should not hesitate. Most of the 2012s had not been racked prior to my visit in November 2013, with the exception of the Bourgogne, Savigny-les-Beaune, Volnay Aussy and Volnay Mitans.