2017 Barde-Haut

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Hélène Garçin-Léveque and her husband Patrice suffered like many other due to frost at Barde-Haut, even though they had the services of photographer Johan Berglund running through the vines lighting candles. “There will be no Château d’Arcée because it was completely frozen,” she tells me. “The weather conditions were great. The vines were beginning to suffer at the end of August, but the vines on calcaire soils suffered much less. In 2017 you can find more difference between the terroir. During the vinification there is no SO2 addition until after malolactic. We are trying to find more elegant tannins and undertake a lighter extraction.” There is always a little competition between their Pomerol and Saint-Émilion estates, Clos l’Eglise and Barde-Haut respectively. I know that Patrice will disagree but for me, he nailed it with a superb Barde-Haut this year. It is a more restrained, terroir-driven wine compared to those of yore, almost like a honed down version of nearby Tertre-Rôteboeuf.

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