2009 Chardonnay Lauren Vineyard

This small retrospective of Lauren Chardonnays from Mark Aubert provided a great opportunity to see how several older vintages are developing. Lauren was planted in 1998 with four clones of Chardonnay: Mt. Eden, Hudson, Hyde and Corton-Charlemagne. My impression is that clonal diversity in this site is one of the reasons the Lauren Chardonnay is such a complete and nuanced wine. Most of Aubert's other Chardonnay vineyards are planted with one or two (at most) clones. The Montrachet clone in particular tends to produce opulent, flamboyant wines, which won't come as a surprise to readers who know the wines of that famed Burgundy site. But Lauren is always a wine of detail and layers. The 2005 Lauren remains one of my all-time favorite California Chardonnays.

(Originally published in Sonoma Preview: January 2018 New Releases)

This is a stunning set of wines from Mark Aubert. Both the Chardonnays and Pinots developed considerably over the time I followed them. Readers should open the wines at least several hours in advance. In general, the 2010s are brighter and more focused than the 2009s, which are more generous. Alcohol levels are also lower across the board in 2010. The Chardonnays spend 10-12 months in barrel, followed by 2 months in oak, and are usually bottled around Christmas. The cellar is kept cold to encourage slow malos, which occur in the spring. The wines are never racked until they are prepared for bottling with no fining or filtration. The Pinots begin their vinification with cold soaks that last 5-6 days. The wines are only racked when they are bottled, which usually takes place in September. Aubert describes his Pinots as largely inspired by his experiences with the Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines he made at a number of properties, including Colgin, Sloan, Bryant and Futo, which remains his only consulting client. Stylistically, the wines are big, bold and highly expressive. The 2010 Pinots are more pointed and vibrant than the 2009s, a year in which the fruit ripened evenly as there were no rains.