2019 Vosne-Romanée Aux Réas

Cyprien Arlaud has established this domaine as one of Morey-Saint-Denis’s frontrunners. I tasted both domaine and négoce wines, the latter under his “&Arlaud” brand name. “I was a bit worried about the water situation in August as it was so dry, but I was amazed how the vines extracted moisture,” Arlaud explained, as we tasted in his barrel cellar. “They are on the limit [with the spate of recent dry seasons.] The first vines of the négoce were picked on 13 September when the berries were already at 14° potential alcohol, whereas for the Domaine Arlaud wines, the maximum alcohol is 13.5°. It was a question of timing - harvesting the right place at the right time. Some blocks we had to return two or three times for optimal picking of say, the younger vines and older vines. The window was short in order to find balance. You had to be reactive [in terms of instructing pickers into the vines at precisely the right time.] The yields are lower than last year, the lowest in Clos de la Roche at 25hl/ha and the highest in the Villages at around 42hl/ha, still quite reasonable. The Village Cru level is higher in 2019 than in 2018. I have a feeling that the yeasts have adapted to the climate after 2018 with a capacity to ferment the sugar more efficiently. Normal cuvaison was around 20 days, maybe a little faster than usual, three of four days less. During the fermentation we had more must than usual and it was just like candy at the beginning in terms of the perfume. I have never found that before. The freshness of the vintage was pushing the fruity aspect. The acidity is around 3.40pH after malo with high tartaric acid that renders the wines very fresh considering berry ripeness. We used more or less the same new oak, 15% for the Charmes-Chambertin and Clos de la Roche but no new oak on the Bonnes-Mares and the Clos Saint-Denis. I think 2019 is one of the best vintages that I have made - ripe and fresh.”

A very fine set of wines here. The heart of the portfolio is the clutch of Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Crus that showed well, particularly the Les Ruchots and a persistent Les Blanchards. One of two flirted with excessive sweetness on the finish. I particular liked Arlaud’s Gevrey-Chambertin Combottes, nothing could match the killer Bonnes-Mares, one of the very best that you will find in this vintage. Arlaud’s style is a little more opulent and a tad more high-toned than other producers and repays cellaring.