2005 Syrah Eisele Vineyard Napa Valley
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According to Bart Araujo, changes in vine structure aimed at getting more uniform sun exposure on the grapes, as well as biodynamic practices at the estate, are now making it possible to get optimal phenolic maturity at lower sugar levels than previously. The result has been a terrific back-to-back set of flagship wines in vintages 2005 and 2006. Winemaker Francoise Peschon noted that crop levels were down 40% here in 2006 from the previous year, despite a good fruit set, as the berries were very small. But the 2005 is a beauty from day one, with more floral lift than would seem possible from this very warm site just south of the town of Calistoga.
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I was pleasantly surprised by the intensity and grip of the 2004 flagship wine here, as most of the cabernet fruit was picked during very hot weather in early September. But then the berries were very small. And a bit of petit verdot added "tannic structure and aromatic quality," said winemaker Francoise Peschon. It will be interesting to compare this wine to the superb '03 over the next 10 to 15 years. The brooding young 2005, from a later harvest, is no slouch either, but this vintage is going to require patience on the part of collectors.
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