2020 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru

I met with head winemaker Alain Serveau when I visited Albert Bichot HQ in Beaune. “When I was tasting the berries, there was more fruit in 2020 than in 2003 because the vines were not as stressed," Serveau told me. "We picked from August 22 until September 3, finishing with the Nuits Saint-Georges Les Terrasses. It was a vintage that was difficult to appreciate at the beginning. The aging in barrel is very important, and I think for the whites, we will do a shorter barrel maturation, so most will be bottled before the end of 2021. The whites' acidity is low, but the pH was not so bad, and we feel there is enough_ mineralité_. The highest alcohol levels were around 15° and the average is around 14.5°. The color and tannins were easy to extract, but there were no vegetal traits." There was a little inconsistency within this portfolio, some cuvées feeling just a bit top-heavy and missing some complexity, though there are some very fine, often undervalued labels such as the Chambolle Les Amoureuses that would give many a trendier name's Amoureuses a run for their money; ditto the Grands-Echézeaux. Also look out for a fine Pommard Les Rugiens.