2015 Rosso Alberico

The term “international varieties” loses much of its meaning in Lazio, where Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot have been cultivated for over 200 years. Even though the renewed excitement over the region is the result of its indigenous grapes, there are a number of great wines being produced using Bordeaux varieties. The wines of Alberico are a proof to this point. The story is one that seems ripped from a fairy tale, the kind that only Italy can produce. Nearly a hundred years ago, Prince Alberico Boncompagni Ludovisi planted vineyards with Bordeaux varieties in a way that was well before its time, using organic practices. Through a mix of traditional techniques, passion and forward-thinking winemaking, the Prince’s wines became highly sought-after by collectors. After over 50 years of success, and with his health in decline, Prince Alberico retired and, prior to his death, for reasons that no one knows, tore up almost all of his vines. Fast-forward to the modern era of Alberico, when the Prince’s daughter married Marchese Piero Antinori. In 2005 Antinori’s daughters, Alessia, Albiera and Allegra, decided to take on the winery as their own project. Amazingly, they located four rows of old-vine Merlot and Cabernet, as well as three rows of Sémillon that the Prince didn’t manage to remove. It’s from here that they replanted the vineyards using massal selection. Today, Alessia Antinori is the face behind Alberico. The winery produces a Rosso and a Bianco under the name Antica 400; these are from the replanted vineyards and represent a fantastic value. As for the original old vines that were planted by the Prince, they are released under the names Rosso and Bianco Alberico. While the price point is much higher, these are extremely limited in production. In good vintages, such as 2015 the Rosso Alberico, reviewed in this report, overdelivers.