2006 Syrah Reva Alban Estate

John Alban calls 2008 "a complete year for white wines around here," noting that moderate weather conditions during the last two weeks of August slowed maturation down and allowed for increased complexity without excessive sugar levels. After the heat waves of June there had been fear that ripeness levels would push high and necessitate an early harvest before sugar levels spiked and acidity fell. "Two thousand seven was just all-around ideal for red grapes," said Alban, adding that "if anything, we had to fight to keep the fruit from being too strong. It is truly a distinctive vintage." Alban expressed strong affection for his 2006s and said they have entered a stage where their spiciness and floral character are increasing. "Everyone is understandably worked up about 2007 but a lot of the 2006s will surprise people with their elegance." Speaking of Alban's 2007, he showed me his lineup of red wines from barrel and if they develop as I predict, they will be uniformly outstanding. The Grenache Alban Estate is a seamless wine that blends depth with sappy energy while the Syrah Reva is intriguingly perfumed and vibrant. The Syrah Lorraine and Syrah Seymour's are both dense black holes of lush dark fruit, with exotic, highly perfumed bouquets and utterly compelling smoky sweetness. Given Alban's extended barrel-aging practices these wines will not be bottled until early 2011.