2008 Viognier The Glenrose Vineyard Paso Robles

Winemaker Terry Culton told me that the white wines here never get any new oak "because it's too much of an intrusion on the minerality that we want to express." He added that he tries to make all his red wines as if they were pinot noir. "I'm looking for balance and high pitch to the fruit, which isn't easy around here in general, but our vines are at high altitude and planted on limestone, so we're at an advantage." The last few vintages here have represented a steady climb in quality, to my palate, and Culton, who has worked as assistant winemaker at Calera, noted that "the Calera style is a model for me, even though I'm working with mostly Rhone varieties now. I want that life and energy in the wines, not brute force."