2014 Thorevilos

Brad Grimes turned out some of the most compelling wines of the 2014 vintage. I tasted the 2014s in my office, far away from the bucolic surroundings of Napa Valley. That setting, with no distractions of any kind, really put the wines in the spotlight, a spotlight they richly deserve. I was blown away by the purity of what I tasted. The Cappella and Las Posadas drink well now, while the Madrona Ranch and Thorevilos are developing at a slightly slower pace. Readers fortunate enough to own these wines are in for a real treat.

Brad Grimes has turned out another set of fabulous wines at Abreu. The 2014s have all gained considerable volume since I first tasted them from barrel. The 2014s are surprisingly accessible relative to how the most recently bottled vintage often shows during my fall tastings. More importantly, the wines feel as though they are made in a less extracted style than just a few years ago. The Abreu wines stand out for their extraordinary purity of fruit and total sense of harmony. As always, Grimes picks according to ripeness regardless of variety, which means that most of the lots are co-fermentations. These remain some of the most riveting, compelling wines being made anywhere in the world. Readers who don't want to splurge on the vineyard designates will find plenty of character and early approachability in the Rothwell Hyde, Abreu's second wine.

Brad Grimes has turned out another set of absolutely brilliant wines at Abreu. The 2013s, which were bottled about a year ago, are not quite as expressive as they were from barrel. Over the years, I have learned that the best time to get a good look at the wines is just prior to bottling (which in this case means the 2014 vintage) during the second year of aging, or after at least a few years in bottle. Nevertheless, the 2013s are impressive, even at this stage. The 2014s continue to grow in barrel. Even so, this is a less immediate vintage than some of the surrounding years, which means the wines will almost certainly require a number of years in bottle to be at their best. Abreu's 2015s are shaping up to be magnificent. I remember seeing the fruit right off the sorting line last year and noting far fewer issues with sunburn and shriveled grapes than was the case at most estates I visited during harvest. Brad Grimes remains arguably the most intuitive winemaker in Napa Valley. In that sense, he reminds me of the most talented musicians I went to college with, musicians who had a natural and easy command of topics most people struggled with. Although Grimes has plenty of help in the vineyards and at the sorting table, in the cellar it is a one man show. These are some of the most artisanal, hand-made Napa Valley wines readers will come across. More importantly, they are every bit as magnificent as these notes suggest.

The haunting sound of Miles Davis's trumpet rises into the cloudless sky as I open the heavy door. Cool, dark and spartan, David Abreu's winery has a temple-like silence to it, except for the music. I spot winemaker Brad Grimes high up on the catwalk closing up a tank, doubtless very short on sleep, as all winemakers are at this time of year. And then come the wines; four single vineyards, three wines and many, many highlights. David Abreu's wines have long delivered intensity and power, but in recent years they have also become incredibly finessed. The 2012s are racy and voluptuous to the core. Except for the Thorevilos, the 2012s will drink well with much less time in the cellar than is typically required. The 2013s and 2014s, on the other hand, will require more patience, but they won't even be offered for another few years, so there is no rush. As always, Abreu draws fruit off four distinct ranches and most of the lots are co-fermentations based on the simultaneous picking of grapes according to ripeness rather than strictly by variety.