2016 Red AA Badenhorst Family

It is always a pleasure to visit the irascible Adi Badenhorst at Kalmoesfontein, his farm in Swartland. There is something a bit chaotic about the place with demijohns scattered here and there. Badenhorst developed a wonderful infused vermouth that has been a great success. I remember tasting the assorted glass demijohns where he was experimenting with various botanical infusions. Of course, Badenhorst was a pivotal figure in the Swartland Revolution and remains one of its most familiar (hirsute) faces. With his manner so relaxed he might as well be lying down, not to mention what sometimes feels like an “anything goes” approach to winemaking, he is easy to underestimate but there is a sharp brain at work here and a talented winemaker. His joie-de-vivre is matched by business acumen that enabled him to transform and expand his winery. “We bought the adjacent farm and also lease another 18 hectares,” he explained. “We have 41 hectares of old vines and the oldest was planted in 1952. So, now we have 70 hectares in total.” I asked him about the 2016 vintage. “The vintage has good acidity, making tighter wines, whilst the 2017 has slightly lower acidity and more expressive open fruit.” Readers should watch out for a video that I made with Badenhorst during my visit that will hopefully give you a flavor of the man. His entry-level Secateurs range has been hugely successful in both domestic and overseas markets, here the 2016 Syrah is a standout. His 2017 Golden Slopes Chenin Blanc from granite soils and an excellent Cinsault from the Ramnasgras vineyard smote me. The Shiraz-dominated 2016 Family Red Blend is excellent and I quite enjoyed the chalky, almost austere finish.