2019 Thorevilos

This is a terrific set of new and upcoming releases from Abreu. Over the last few years, in particular, the wines have become much more texturally refined so that they are no longer the brutes they used to be on release. Always soft-spoken and unassuming, winemaker Brad Grimes's says he hasn’t changed much. That may be the case from year to year, but over an arc of time, it seems pretty obvious that the Abreu wines are more refined than ever. Another development here is the continued improvement in wines from Cappella and Las Posadas, sites that played second fiddle to the flagships from Madrona Ranch and Thorevilos. That is no longer the case these days. While there are no 2020s, there are plenty of other wines to look forward to.

Brad Grimes showed me an extraordinary range of wines during my most recent visit. Grimes’ career in wine began in the early 2000s, when the prevailing style in Napa Valley was very different from today, so it has been interesting to watch the slow yet deliberate move towards a more refined style here. Grimes doesn’t say much, but he doesn’t need to. The wines say it all. Abreu fans will want to note that beginning in 2019 Thorevilos is made from a new site not too far away from the original vineyard. It’s a site Abreu planted years ago and is in the process of redeveloping. It will be fascinating where Thorevilos 2.0 goes. Knowing the drive Abreu and Grimes share, I am betting they will look to surpass their previous efforts. Last, but certainly not least, the 2018 Rothwell Hyde is fabulous and a great choice for readers who choose not to splurge on the more expensive wines in this lineup.